More Compound Experiences

Before I came, I found a place called Couch Surfing where travelers can find someone to meet in a country or even to stay with. I began corresponding with a 32 year old teacher with a wife and three children. Today, I met him and without his help, I would have had a lot more difficulty posting these blogs. He really knows his way around the technology here. (Don't worry Ken. I doubt he has had the opportunity to learn and experience all you have.)
Lamin met me at the gellah gellah garage with his friend Kabo who, luckily for me, has a car. We went to Lamin's compound where, not only did I meet his family, but his wife, Maddy had made the most delicious domada I've had. (A far cry from mine, for those who've tasted it!) It's most interesting to compare it to the four or five times I've had it in Makumbaya. It was rich tasting and probably had a whole chicken in it. In Makumbaya, there has never been any meat. I think it shows the economy of the two families. Here I ate from a common bowl with spoons. I was joined only by the three men. When the visitors left, Matty and the children joined in. It was a lovely affair.
Lamin took me to a Western Union which is the only place open after noon Saturday where you can get money. VISA is no longer effective in the Gambia!!! Thanks, Rough Guide for telling me it's the best way to get money! Western Union is supposed to be the lowest rate, but instead I received 26,000 dalasi instead of the 22,000 on my first day.
Now we're back at the Internet Cafe where he knows everyone (works here part time) and we've had attaya. (That might be spelled wrong, but it's the super strong green tea with tons of sugar.) From here we're going to here music from Guinea. I met the drummer at Lamin's compound earlier today. Unfortunately, music doesn't start until midnight, so I'll be bushed tomorrow. Luckily I can attend because I have a ride home.

My First Week

Gambia is an incredible trip! The people are so friendly and helpful, I see why it's advertised as "The Smiling Coast."
The acomodations in Makumbaya are not exactly as shown in Meagan's blog. I have a private drop loo, but if I want to go at night, I have to unlock my door and walk around a building and a bunch of other things, remove a stick that holds the tin and wood door closed and be sure to have water with me. Not bad, just unanticipated. \
In living in the compound, I see a huge strength of the country. The extended family is wonderful to observe. There are five young mothers, three fathers and ten children. The oldest three go to nursery school. Watching the family interact is such a treat. Although I am fed in a separate bowl and given a spoon, the rest of the women and children gather around one huge bowl on the ground. Most use their right hand to eat. It's a site to observe. The chickens are nearby to clean up any of the rice that falls. Yes, there's rice and rice and rice. I must admit though, I've enjoyed every Gambian dish that I've had. I didn't enjoy eating the bones of the fish, although it was alright to drop then on the ground for the animals.
The gellah-gellah are amazing. I have traveled on them anytime I've gone to or from Makumbaya. They are vans that are licensed for 22 people. So far I only seen 18 plus a few babies. Each one has an apprentice who controls the door and collects money. Often the doors keep coming open. It's totally amazing that people don't get hurt. At the same time riding in them is a joy. They wait to leave until there are "enough" passengers. Then they also pick up along the way. Sometimes it's things they're also picking up, like the time it stopped at a quarry. We waited while they filled three huge bags with zigon. I don't know the spelling or the use except that it's edible, but pregnant women shouldn't eat it. I tried it and it seem tasteless, so there must be a reason to consume it.
The school where I'll be working has huge classes, but they are really energetic and well behaved. The Jolly Phonics are sung with gusto. Unfortunately, usually I can't understand the words. For those of you who know me, you know how difficult accents are for me to understand. On top of that, these are children learning a third, fourth or fifth language! I'm actually impressed with what I've seen teaching wise, but I haven't seen much. I'll be observing and making suggestions beginning next week. This week, I'll be teaching a spelling exercise that will allow everyone to continually be taking part and give every student many times to hear the correct spelling.
Music-wise, I've had two incredible experiences. Both are meeting the top kora players in their compounds. At Jaliba Kuyateh's compound, I met him and listened to a practice. (More details later) Today, I visited with Malamini and PaBobo Jobarteh. I will be taking lessons from PaBobo and learning local stories from his dad, Malamini. I continue to find it amazing that you can actually interact with the top performers.
Next time I get to the internet, I hope to have my entry on a thumb drive as well as photos.

Jaliba Kuyateh - more details

While visiting in Brikama with Ebrima Sarr, my host, he took me to Jaliba's compound. We were met there by the drummer, Baba. Baba said that Jaliba's group would be practicing at four and that we should come back at 3:30. He also said that any musicians who were late to practice had to pay a fine.
We returned at 3:30 and had the pleasure of watching jeli children playing the instruments while the crew set up. I'll soon add photos if I can figure out how to do it. It was amazing how there were babies under a year who kept wanting to drum. Their mom's would take them to the three sabar and they would beat them with a stick. (Those drums are often played with one hand and one stick.)At least two of Jaliba's sons played the kora and sang. I had the pleasure of playing the balafon for a bit. Not West African tunes, just a couple originals.
Time passed and finally at five fifteen, Jaliba showed up! Guess the fine doesn't apply to him. He did go eat before he joined practice! The rehearsal reminded me of a few I've heard at home - Jeliba telling people how he'd like them to change what they were playing. Everyone was pleasant, no cross words, just men working together on four songs.
After hearing them, I see why people here consider Jaliba the top performer. He playes while he sings and dances and he is active in social causes.

Griot - Jeli

I'd mentioned that there would be more about the term Griot. Rather than putting it in my own words before I visit the country, I'd rather quote from Eric Cherry, in his book, Mande Music. "The Maninka term Jeli (in Mandinka they are called Jalis) refers to a type of musical and verbal artist. Jelis are somewhat like the bards of old Europe. They are story teller, historians and musicians and yet more than this. Not just anybody can be Jeli. They are highly trained individuals and the skills are handed down through generations of specific families. Jelis have the exlusive right to play the kora, the bala (balafon) and the Koni. In certain areas Jelis also play the Jeli dundun and the tama. It is their role to sing and recount Mande social & politcal life.
They are praise singers and often encourage people to act. It is said that they can mould actions out or music in much the same way a blacksmith can mould useful things out of metal.
There are 3 fields of speciality for Jelis
* Speech (kuma) - This usually consists of history, stories, geneologies and proverbs.
* Song (Donkili) - Melodies and lyrics.
* Instrument playing (Maninka: foli, Mandinka: kosiri).
Each skill has completely different training and the end result is high specialisation whichever is chosen. Most males are skilled in 2 of these areas. Females are generally singers. Certain family names are Jeli, such as Cissokho, Koyate, Conte and Diabate." Others in The Gambia are Jobarteh, Susso, Suso, Saho, Kanuteh, Konte, & Konteh.

Jolly Phonics

In my teaching of English to third through sixth grade, I've been asked to use a British program called Jolly Phonics. It contains a song that all of you probably learned in school. I'm trying to learn it this new way! Check it out.

The Kora

Here, not only does one of the master kora players,Toumani Diabate, describe how to play the instrument, but you also get to hear it played with the balafon (marimba), djembe, ngoni, sabar, ntama, guitar, and other instruments. Near the beginning, you see the balafon from underneath. Watch for the small gourd under each wooden key. The sound resonates through those gourds. Each gourd has one or more holes drilled in it and then covered. The covering used to be made from spider egg cases. Nowadays cigarette papers are used.
Ry Cooder has played piano and guitar with this group.
If you'd like to personally hear this man, Toumani Diabate is playing on April 10, 2009 with the Bela fleck group at the University of Pennsylvania.

M'balax music

M'balax ( balax, Mballax, Mbalakh, Ndaga, Ndagga) music began in the 1970's in The Gambia and Senegal as a fusion of popular Western music and dance such as jazz, soul, Latin (especially Cuban) and rock blended with sabar, the traditional polyrhythmic drumming and dance music of the area. Dancers used moves associated with the sabar rhythms. Some of the first to popularize this music were Youssou N'Dour, Baaba Maal Thione Seck and Omar Pene.
In this video you can see the sabar drums (hit with one hand and one stick) join today's instruments.

Music Weekends continued.

The next video is Pa Bobo's brother, Tata Dindin Jobarteh singing his composition, "One Love" with his Salam band. In it you can see a riti player. The riti is a one stringed instrument. You'll also see a stilt dancer and what I believe is a masquerade called a Kankurang. He is an individual who wears a mask made of the bark and red fibre of the faara tree.

Music Weekends

Because people attend mosque on Friday afternoons, school is only held for four and a half days in The Gambia.  That means I'll be able to travel somewhere by gelleh gelleh (bush taxi)beginning Friday afternoons. At present I plan to spend many weekends in Brikama which is the music center of the country. I've studied West African drumming for the past seven years, but most of my teachers are from Guinea. That means I'll be exposed to a lot of new music. 

In preparation for my trip, I've been listening to music from The Gambia. I find myself loving the sound of the Kora, The Gambia's national instrument. I am so intrigued by it, that I've decided to take a few lessons in order to understand the basic technique. The kora is a Mandinkan harp-lute type instrument made from a large calabash, a rosewood pole and 21 strings which today are made from fishing line. 

I'll be taking lessons from Pa Bobo Jobarteh who comes from a long line of Griot. (Griot or jeli will be the subject of a later entry.) 

I'm attaching two YouTube entries. The one is of Pa Bobo playing in a compound. This may be where I take a lesson. Wherever it is, I probably can meet his brother Tata Dindin who is also a well-known kora player and also his father Malamini who was the manager of the Gambia National Troup and of course plays kora. 

Right now, a song that PaBobo composed, Peace, Love and Unity has become an unofficial national anthem of The Gambia. (Second video. Sung by another griot, Lamin Saho.) If you'd like to see more about Pa Bobo and his family, check out his site at www.kairakundaarts.org.