Wednesday, March 11, 2009

Kaira Kunda

Did I tell you that Kaira is Peace? That's important to Pa Bobo and his friends.
Now it's time to begin building Kaira Kunda. We have many ideas, and will begin slowly. Actually, we're beginning by trying to find a way to buy a gellah gellah. Pa's band turns down gigs right now because it COSTS them money to perform. They need to rent all the sound equiptment which also means running around to pick it up. (Gas is NOT cheap here and the roads are really hard on the cars.) Then, as in last Saturday's show, the equiptment didn't work. The show finally started two hours late when they'd repaced some components.
So, back to the gellah gellah. The band needs the vehicle for shows but the neat thing is that the vehicle can EASILY earn money. It can be on the road any time the band doesn't need it. Thus it'll help purchase the sound equiptment, repair and replace instruments and also feed many of the families who are involved with the band.
Kaira Kunda tentative plans include Gambian music instruction (kora, balafon, sabar drum, kutura drums, etc), instument construction, cultural studies, theatre, vocational education (in tailoring, sound production, computer sciences, etc.), workshops to offer foreigners such as a Gambian week which would include many cultural happenings, wonderful food and a few excursions (another Gelleh gelleh use!), a week of learning gourmet Gambian cooking, intensive instrumental workshops, Kumba's Coffeeshop (You should taste Coffee Touba! IT's wonderful! And the coffeshop is for the future when the place is really busy.)and maybe a full time school for a few grades. Right now, everything is being investigated. There are so many possibilities but little easily accessible information for our planning. Sure wish I had a background in business and in marketing. Somehow, I'm in charge of moving this project forward! I think I better understand why I'm called Kumba Jali Musoo Jobarteh. As the elderly kora body maker told me quietly Saturday evening. Kumba, you're the captain. Set sail whenever you're ready!!! Yes, that's amazing. I'm not sure why it's me, but it's an exciting project that will feed many Gambians and also provide great opportunities for both Gambian children and for international audiences.
Today, we're continuing with the cement brick "Fence" which must keep the goats out. It's amazing how when there is any labor to be done, there are many friends there to help. They'll be the people who get the "jobs" too, when there are jobs to be given. They're dependable, hard working people who share Pa's philosophies.
My internet time is nearly over again. Pa's computer battery doesn't hold a charge longer than 20 minutes. If anyone know where to get a new battery quickly, here's the information. Toshiba Satellite Pro A60S4, model #1 PSA65E-OOCO18S4. Serial # 74018930Q. The battery itself says: Toshiba Li-ion Battery Pack. Model #PA3384U - 1BRS.
By for now.

Weirdness in Makumbya

Nice title, huh! According to my loving husband, Ken, the news from Makumbaya made the New York Times the other day. Twelve people were arrested. There has been a dispute over land between Makumbaya and another village for many years. There has even been destruction of some property. I really don't know details, except that the ladies in my compound are scared to even talk about it because you never know who is an "informer." I've been told there was also a witchhunt last week in which several were arrested and one wound up dying. Obviously there is much turmoil in town and because of it, Pa's concert has been postponed indefinitely. I hope it happens while I'm here, but who knows. Now I feel as though I'm in a different Africa. This country is all about love, acceptance, and enjoying what life offers. Makumbaya doesn't feel like the Gambia I've experienced any place else.
Because a couple teachers suggested that I might want to go away for a week while things settle down, I haven't been to school again and won't be until next Monday. There's no way I want to end up in some jail! Thus, plans are going forward with Kaira Kunda.

Wednesday, March 4, 2009

Under the Cashew Trees

Under the Cashew Trees had to be the name of an entry, since so much time is spent there. I don't know the temperatures since I have no radio, tv, newspaper, etc and since it would be in Celsius and I don't remember how to translate that, it doesn't much matter how hot it is. The afternoons are usually hot, but I realize that I don't mind it too much. We spend a lot of time sitting in the shade of the cashew trees.

The cashew nuts are available now. It's interesting to see how the people take a handful, bury them under some brush, light a fire, watch it burn while you play around a little with it, and then when the fire is out, find the cashews. Immediately, someone takes two rocks and begins opening them. My, they are delicious. (Almost as good as the fresh bananas!)

There eventually will be a fruit which is shaped a lot like a red pepper. It's skin is so delicate that they're never shipped. Yet I understand they're a delicious fruit. I'll tell you more when I know first hand.

Under the Cashew Trees, there is always a breeze. And there are usually people gathered. At the Kaira Kunda (Google it. IT's Pa's Music School that has incredible potential.) many of my kora lessons happen under the tree. I didn't understand why early on in my lessons, Pa, Binta, Boss and Modou were encouraging me to stay there, 24/7. It took a while to realize that a lesson isn't just an hour committment. Pa teaches a phrase and then you practice it until it's really natural. Then he'll return, play that phrase within the rest of the conposition and then show a new section. I practice at least 3 hours a day and at least 2 of those hours are parts of lessons. I'm really still a beginner and get really frustrated at how slowly I learn and how quickly I forget. Just last night, Pa played a phrase and said he hadn't heard me practicing it lately. He was right. I'd totally forgotten it. He had to completely reteach it. Thank goodness he's a patient man. I'm trying to write down the music, but it's difficult. Without that, it's me trying to be an aural learner. Of all the learning modalities, that was my poorist. Cross that fact with my lack of memory and you'll see the frustration. Yet all that frustrastion is surrounded with so much positive life that I can't complain.

Back to the cashew trees. People often gather there just to talk and laugh. Mealtimes often happen there too. A large covered bowl is placed on the ground and everyone gets around it. A couple people use a spoon, but most use their right hand. I'm really messy at that, but I do enjoy it. And it's alright to be messy. Anything that falls on the ground will be chicken food. No waste there.

My internet cafe time is about to end. This has been the least frustrating time I've spent here in ages. Still hoping to have wireless internet at Kaira Kunda, but don't have any idea of when. Everything takes longer than you think it possibly can here.

The Adventures continue in spite of technology

Sorry you haven't heard in a month!!!!! but technology here is the pits!
The internet cafe's are super slow and not always working. I've lost so much time and so many blog entries and email messages over the past weeks. The laptop Ken bought me isn't supported in this country. That means that the flash drives can't be used to move photos or information either. (Or at least that neither I nor the Gambians know how!)

I hate to begin an entry by complaining about something when life here is soooooooooo rich. Just had another example of that. Here I am at an internet cafe that has some family connection to my kora teacher, Pa Bobo Jobarteh. Because of that, I was invited to have lunch. That meant sitting around a bowl with 7 other people sharing the palm oil. That's the name of the dish because palm oil is poured on it just before you eat. The food here is outrageous. Its incredients are purchased at market shortly before preparation. Everything is really tasty. I swear, the food here is a hidden treasure of the Gambia.

I have perhaps been the luckiest tourist in this country. I have three "families" who are all incredible. I have had a total of ONE tourist meal in 5 1/2 weeks and that was so I could meet a Swedish friend of a friend and also a friend of hers who is a musician from Maine who has been recording kora music here for ten years. I'm continually living with Gambians and seeing scenes tourists wouldn't even know they should want to see. I am now really ingrained with my teacher and his family. That's Pa Bobo Jobarteh. He is a real jali. I've read about jeli, Griot and jali for a while now, and although I knew he belonged to a jali family when I asked for lessons, I didn't realize that he's the 30 year old son who is loved by so many. Anytime we are in the car, people are calling to him or stopping him. As a Jali he not only is a musician, storyteller and keeper of history, but he's also a counselor and mediator. He's a person who has faith in others when most don't. He's a person who has earned the love of so many through so many selfless acts. Unfortunately, those qualities do not earn a living. Most of his living comes from performances - abroad. He'll actually be coming to the US to perform at the Global Health Conference in DC, May 26-30. Baring the unforseen, he'll be coming to Norry for a while after that. I know a few musicians who will love jamming with him and you'll all love him personally. He's positively delightful.

I'm hoping to also host his wife, Binta and 16 month (now) daughter, Mam Jarra. Last time he toured for 5 months, she was really young and by the tiume he returned had forgotten him as her father This stay will be about the same length, so I'm hoping to provide the chance for them to spend a week together. Mam Jarra has started calling me Mama Kumba. It's so nice. I love having children. His family, even the extended family, has welcomed me with open arms. His mom even calls me her daughter. NOW IF I COULD ONLY SPEAK THE LANGUAGE!!! I've got to work on that harder.

This Saturday, Pa is performing at the school where I work with the teachers. The school needs a kitchen in order to take part in the government's free food program. Pa wants me to have "African" hair (but not dreads) for the program since I'll be receiving my African name. I've been Kumba since my arrival. At first, I was Kumba Sarr because I lived with the Sarr family in Makumbaya. On weekends I'd visit Lamin Debo who is the teacher I'd met on the internet. His wife Matty is lovely and a terrific cook. Anyhow, Lamin knew my interests before I got here and with his "boy" (that means friend here!) Kaymo who has a car, were filling my weekend time. There I was Kumba Debo. Then I finally began my kora lessons with PA. It was an immediate connection. We're both totally open and honest and have the same concerns and goals in life. Two of his childhood friends, Boss and Modou, hang out with him most of the time. They're both in the band and are considered family. Then there are the two families. One is at the Jali Compound where his father, sisters and brothers live. The other is at his music school, Kaira Kunda. That's where his wife Binta is with Mam Jarra and Buntay, a nine year old daughter. That's where he gave me my own "house". A house is only two small rooms, a bedroom with a huge bed and a living room with little. Still, it means a lot to have my own space. Now, don't get the idea that this is a sexual thing. He is VERY Muslim. There is NO sex without marriage.

I started telling you about the Saturday concert, but got sidelined. At that concert I will be playing one song with him, but he will be talking about me and why my name from then on will be Kumba Jali Muso Jobarteh. A female jali is a jali muso, a male, a jali kay. Whatever he says, I know I'm being honored, although I fail to completely understand why. I'm nothing special. I love him, his family, his life goals and most of his culture. That's not really a reason. I'll have to find out when it happens what it all means. But the hair request is interesting. I know I'll have lots of things added to my hair and I don't think my hair will show at all. We'll see. I'm psyched. On the other hand, if the hair doesn't happen, I'll still be psyched and have a great time. I love the teachers I work with and love the idea that I could help Africans help themselves rather than depend on handouts from foreigners.

See you in six weeks, but hopefully, I'll write to the Blog more often.
Kumba Jali Muso Jobarteh
alias, Hope