A Kora lesson under the Cashew Trees

Kaira Kunda

Did I tell you that Kaira is Peace? That's important to Pa Bobo and his friends.
Now it's time to begin building Kaira Kunda. We have many ideas, and will begin slowly. Actually, we're beginning by trying to find a way to buy a gellah gellah. Pa's band turns down gigs right now because it COSTS them money to perform. They need to rent all the sound equiptment which also means running around to pick it up. (Gas is NOT cheap here and the roads are really hard on the cars.) Then, as in last Saturday's show, the equiptment didn't work. The show finally started two hours late when they'd repaced some components.
So, back to the gellah gellah. The band needs the vehicle for shows but the neat thing is that the vehicle can EASILY earn money. It can be on the road any time the band doesn't need it. Thus it'll help purchase the sound equiptment, repair and replace instruments and also feed many of the families who are involved with the band.
Kaira Kunda tentative plans include Gambian music instruction (kora, balafon, sabar drum, kutura drums, etc), instument construction, cultural studies, theatre, vocational education (in tailoring, sound production, computer sciences, etc.), workshops to offer foreigners such as a Gambian week which would include many cultural happenings, wonderful food and a few excursions (another Gelleh gelleh use!), a week of learning gourmet Gambian cooking, intensive instrumental workshops, Kumba's Coffeeshop (You should taste Coffee Touba! IT's wonderful! And the coffeshop is for the future when the place is really busy.)and maybe a full time school for a few grades. Right now, everything is being investigated. There are so many possibilities but little easily accessible information for our planning. Sure wish I had a background in business and in marketing. Somehow, I'm in charge of moving this project forward! I think I better understand why I'm called Kumba Jali Musoo Jobarteh. As the elderly kora body maker told me quietly Saturday evening. Kumba, you're the captain. Set sail whenever you're ready!!! Yes, that's amazing. I'm not sure why it's me, but it's an exciting project that will feed many Gambians and also provide great opportunities for both Gambian children and for international audiences.
Today, we're continuing with the cement brick "Fence" which must keep the goats out. It's amazing how when there is any labor to be done, there are many friends there to help. They'll be the people who get the "jobs" too, when there are jobs to be given. They're dependable, hard working people who share Pa's philosophies.
My internet time is nearly over again. Pa's computer battery doesn't hold a charge longer than 20 minutes. If anyone know where to get a new battery quickly, here's the information. Toshiba Satellite Pro A60S4, model #1 PSA65E-OOCO18S4. Serial # 74018930Q. The battery itself says: Toshiba Li-ion Battery Pack. Model #PA3384U - 1BRS.
By for now.

Weirdness in Makumbya

Nice title, huh! According to my loving husband, Ken, the news from Makumbaya made the New York Times the other day. Twelve people were arrested. There has been a dispute over land between Makumbaya and another village for many years. There has even been destruction of some property. I really don't know details, except that the ladies in my compound are scared to even talk about it because you never know who is an "informer." I've been told there was also a witchhunt last week in which several were arrested and one wound up dying. Obviously there is much turmoil in town and because of it, Pa's concert has been postponed indefinitely. I hope it happens while I'm here, but who knows. Now I feel as though I'm in a different Africa. This country is all about love, acceptance, and enjoying what life offers. Makumbaya doesn't feel like the Gambia I've experienced any place else.
Because a couple teachers suggested that I might want to go away for a week while things settle down, I haven't been to school again and won't be until next Monday. There's no way I want to end up in some jail! Thus, plans are going forward with Kaira Kunda.

Under the Cashew Trees

Under the Cashew Trees had to be the name of an entry, since so much time is spent there. I don't know the temperatures since I have no radio, tv, newspaper, etc and since it would be in Celsius and I don't remember how to translate that, it doesn't much matter how hot it is. The afternoons are usually hot, but I realize that I don't mind it too much. We spend a lot of time sitting in the shade of the cashew trees.

The cashew nuts are available now. It's interesting to see how the people take a handful, bury them under some brush, light a fire, watch it burn while you play around a little with it, and then when the fire is out, find the cashews. Immediately, someone takes two rocks and begins opening them. My, they are delicious. (Almost as good as the fresh bananas!)

There eventually will be a fruit which is shaped a lot like a red pepper. It's skin is so delicate that they're never shipped. Yet I understand they're a delicious fruit. I'll tell you more when I know first hand.

Under the Cashew Trees, there is always a breeze. And there are usually people gathered. At the Kaira Kunda (Google it. IT's Pa's Music School that has incredible potential.) many of my kora lessons happen under the tree. I didn't understand why early on in my lessons, Pa, Binta, Boss and Modou were encouraging me to stay there, 24/7. It took a while to realize that a lesson isn't just an hour committment. Pa teaches a phrase and then you practice it until it's really natural. Then he'll return, play that phrase within the rest of the conposition and then show a new section. I practice at least 3 hours a day and at least 2 of those hours are parts of lessons. I'm really still a beginner and get really frustrated at how slowly I learn and how quickly I forget. Just last night, Pa played a phrase and said he hadn't heard me practicing it lately. He was right. I'd totally forgotten it. He had to completely reteach it. Thank goodness he's a patient man. I'm trying to write down the music, but it's difficult. Without that, it's me trying to be an aural learner. Of all the learning modalities, that was my poorist. Cross that fact with my lack of memory and you'll see the frustration. Yet all that frustrastion is surrounded with so much positive life that I can't complain.

Back to the cashew trees. People often gather there just to talk and laugh. Mealtimes often happen there too. A large covered bowl is placed on the ground and everyone gets around it. A couple people use a spoon, but most use their right hand. I'm really messy at that, but I do enjoy it. And it's alright to be messy. Anything that falls on the ground will be chicken food. No waste there.

My internet cafe time is about to end. This has been the least frustrating time I've spent here in ages. Still hoping to have wireless internet at Kaira Kunda, but don't have any idea of when. Everything takes longer than you think it possibly can here.

The Adventures continue in spite of technology

Sorry you haven't heard in a month!!!!! but technology here is the pits!
The internet cafe's are super slow and not always working. I've lost so much time and so many blog entries and email messages over the past weeks. The laptop Ken bought me isn't supported in this country. That means that the flash drives can't be used to move photos or information either. (Or at least that neither I nor the Gambians know how!)

I hate to begin an entry by complaining about something when life here is soooooooooo rich. Just had another example of that. Here I am at an internet cafe that has some family connection to my kora teacher, Pa Bobo Jobarteh. Because of that, I was invited to have lunch. That meant sitting around a bowl with 7 other people sharing the palm oil. That's the name of the dish because palm oil is poured on it just before you eat. The food here is outrageous. Its incredients are purchased at market shortly before preparation. Everything is really tasty. I swear, the food here is a hidden treasure of the Gambia.

I have perhaps been the luckiest tourist in this country. I have three "families" who are all incredible. I have had a total of ONE tourist meal in 5 1/2 weeks and that was so I could meet a Swedish friend of a friend and also a friend of hers who is a musician from Maine who has been recording kora music here for ten years. I'm continually living with Gambians and seeing scenes tourists wouldn't even know they should want to see. I am now really ingrained with my teacher and his family. That's Pa Bobo Jobarteh. He is a real jali. I've read about jeli, Griot and jali for a while now, and although I knew he belonged to a jali family when I asked for lessons, I didn't realize that he's the 30 year old son who is loved by so many. Anytime we are in the car, people are calling to him or stopping him. As a Jali he not only is a musician, storyteller and keeper of history, but he's also a counselor and mediator. He's a person who has faith in others when most don't. He's a person who has earned the love of so many through so many selfless acts. Unfortunately, those qualities do not earn a living. Most of his living comes from performances - abroad. He'll actually be coming to the US to perform at the Global Health Conference in DC, May 26-30. Baring the unforseen, he'll be coming to Norry for a while after that. I know a few musicians who will love jamming with him and you'll all love him personally. He's positively delightful.

I'm hoping to also host his wife, Binta and 16 month (now) daughter, Mam Jarra. Last time he toured for 5 months, she was really young and by the tiume he returned had forgotten him as her father This stay will be about the same length, so I'm hoping to provide the chance for them to spend a week together. Mam Jarra has started calling me Mama Kumba. It's so nice. I love having children. His family, even the extended family, has welcomed me with open arms. His mom even calls me her daughter. NOW IF I COULD ONLY SPEAK THE LANGUAGE!!! I've got to work on that harder.

This Saturday, Pa is performing at the school where I work with the teachers. The school needs a kitchen in order to take part in the government's free food program. Pa wants me to have "African" hair (but not dreads) for the program since I'll be receiving my African name. I've been Kumba since my arrival. At first, I was Kumba Sarr because I lived with the Sarr family in Makumbaya. On weekends I'd visit Lamin Debo who is the teacher I'd met on the internet. His wife Matty is lovely and a terrific cook. Anyhow, Lamin knew my interests before I got here and with his "boy" (that means friend here!) Kaymo who has a car, were filling my weekend time. There I was Kumba Debo. Then I finally began my kora lessons with PA. It was an immediate connection. We're both totally open and honest and have the same concerns and goals in life. Two of his childhood friends, Boss and Modou, hang out with him most of the time. They're both in the band and are considered family. Then there are the two families. One is at the Jali Compound where his father, sisters and brothers live. The other is at his music school, Kaira Kunda. That's where his wife Binta is with Mam Jarra and Buntay, a nine year old daughter. That's where he gave me my own "house". A house is only two small rooms, a bedroom with a huge bed and a living room with little. Still, it means a lot to have my own space. Now, don't get the idea that this is a sexual thing. He is VERY Muslim. There is NO sex without marriage.

I started telling you about the Saturday concert, but got sidelined. At that concert I will be playing one song with him, but he will be talking about me and why my name from then on will be Kumba Jali Muso Jobarteh. A female jali is a jali muso, a male, a jali kay. Whatever he says, I know I'm being honored, although I fail to completely understand why. I'm nothing special. I love him, his family, his life goals and most of his culture. That's not really a reason. I'll have to find out when it happens what it all means. But the hair request is interesting. I know I'll have lots of things added to my hair and I don't think my hair will show at all. We'll see. I'm psyched. On the other hand, if the hair doesn't happen, I'll still be psyched and have a great time. I love the teachers I work with and love the idea that I could help Africans help themselves rather than depend on handouts from foreigners.

See you in six weeks, but hopefully, I'll write to the Blog more often.
Kumba Jali Muso Jobarteh
alias, Hope

School News and maybe a plea

I finally gave in and presented a workshop on Jolly Phonics. From my observations, I saw that the children know the songs, but there is NO connection between knowing the sounds of letters and blending them into words. Never have I heard a child try to sound out a word. Never are they asked to. Never have I seen it practiced in any way. Thus, the workshop. I was really pleased with the reaction of the teachers, from asking for help ahead of time to talking more and more about their teaching after. It's going to be a tough and tedious process for the teachers to turn the children into readers rather than rote responders. Most seem up for the task although I'm not sure how much they understand yet.

MondoChallenge had provided training for some teachers and a volunteer had provided many supplies (perhaps with MondoChallenge's help). Unfortunately, only one of the trained teachers remains at the school. And most of the supplies went along with the transferred teachers. Thus, we're starting near zero in many ways. There are a few supplies that I must have and will pay for myself unless MondoChallenge or my friends assist. Every teacher must have a copy of the songs and a copy of a small book of word banks. The latter is being printed this weekend. Fifty pages at two dalasi per page for fifteen teachers. That's only 750 dalasi, so I said go ahead. The songs I'll do soon although I've hand written two copies already.

The other item which is desperately needed is the little composition books the children use. Their parents are supposed to buy them, but often can't or don't. Thus the children sit with nothing to do. The cost is only five for a dollar. I'd love to be able to pass them out to those I see are in need or the teachers say are in need. Many supplies sit in the office (not composition books) and are not offered to teachers or students. Thus, I want control. If anyone wants to contribute, just let Ken know and he'll make deposits to our account. Next weekend I may be able to get to an ATM. So far, I haven't been to Banjul where the country's three ATMs are located!!!!

That's all for now. Thinking about you all, and enjoying the challenges life brings.

Music to come

It's hard to believe that I've been here three weeks and have heard NO drumming. The wedding we attended last Sunday was to have it, but it turned out that there had been a funeral in the family during the week, so the music was cancelled.
Tomorrow will be my first real kora lesson with PaBobo. Then in the evening I'll be hearing his group perform. Maybe you'll see a video of it next week or after Ken gets ahold of it.
There really isn't any music in the village where I live. Can't believe it.
The internet is being really weird and I just lost a whole post about how they deal with trash. This is just a warning that there may be no more this weekend. Sorry.

An idea of the School

I've spent the last week observing the teaching at the Makumbaya Lower Basic School. I'm amazed. Most teachers are terribly dedicated, but half untrained. The class sizes are outrageous; from 33 to 47. Last year half the class came in the morning and half in the afternoon, but the government said that unless there are more than SIXTY students in the class, that would not be allowed!!!! Can you imagin 45 first graders? How in the world can you teach that many students the basic of reading and math. My job is to come up with techniques. If any of you want to suggest one, please do.
The children come to school at 9 and at 11:30 have a half hour break where mothers sell food. Most children have a couple dalasis to purchase. I pity those that don't, but can't help them. At noon they go back in for another hour instruction. Then there are a few third and fifth grade students whose parents can pay 15 dalasis a month for further instruction from two to four.
There is also an advanced placement class for the best of the sixth grad and they're testing now for the fifth grade class. On Friday I began the folktale to drama road with the sixth by reading Anansi and the Tug-of-War.
Twice a week the students begin their day by standing in line for A HALF HOUR for assembly. THat's the time the deputy tells them about being on time and studying hard. It's incredibly boring and of course as far as being on time he's "preaching to the choir" since the late comers aren't their yet. I just can't imagine US students successfully doing that!
Corporal punishment is legally not allowed, but it happens anyhow. I don't condone it, but how can untrained individuals, or even trained teachers handle so many students for such long times without having a bit of fear instilled in them . It's part of their life and it surprises me that the children are still enthusiastic about learning. They still volunteer to go to the board even though if what they write in incorrect, instead of being aided to succeed, they'll be told, "Wrong! Take your seat. Don't waste our time!" (I've heard those words in at least six classrooms!) I'm hoping to instill in the teachers the idea of "positive reinforcement" by the time I leave.
As I was told, there are few supplies other than chalk and a piece of sponge to erase and a book for the teacher. When there are student texts, there are only a few. I observed a reading lesson in a fifth grade of 45 students who had nine texts. THey did group so five were sharing each book, but two were trying to read up-side down. Then there was the first grade with 45 students and nine books where the teacher gave a book to 9 individual students and the others didn't even have a chance to see. This truly is an emense challenge.
Well, on the positive side, so far, suggestions seem to be appreciated and several teachers have used them. Hope it lasts.
Many more things to tell, but time is running out. Loving life here, challange after challange.

More Compound Experiences

Before I came, I found a place called Couch Surfing where travelers can find someone to meet in a country or even to stay with. I began corresponding with a 32 year old teacher with a wife and three children. Today, I met him and without his help, I would have had a lot more difficulty posting these blogs. He really knows his way around the technology here. (Don't worry Ken. I doubt he has had the opportunity to learn and experience all you have.)
Lamin met me at the gellah gellah garage with his friend Kabo who, luckily for me, has a car. We went to Lamin's compound where, not only did I meet his family, but his wife, Maddy had made the most delicious domada I've had. (A far cry from mine, for those who've tasted it!) It's most interesting to compare it to the four or five times I've had it in Makumbaya. It was rich tasting and probably had a whole chicken in it. In Makumbaya, there has never been any meat. I think it shows the economy of the two families. Here I ate from a common bowl with spoons. I was joined only by the three men. When the visitors left, Matty and the children joined in. It was a lovely affair.
Lamin took me to a Western Union which is the only place open after noon Saturday where you can get money. VISA is no longer effective in the Gambia!!! Thanks, Rough Guide for telling me it's the best way to get money! Western Union is supposed to be the lowest rate, but instead I received 26,000 dalasi instead of the 22,000 on my first day.
Now we're back at the Internet Cafe where he knows everyone (works here part time) and we've had attaya. (That might be spelled wrong, but it's the super strong green tea with tons of sugar.) From here we're going to here music from Guinea. I met the drummer at Lamin's compound earlier today. Unfortunately, music doesn't start until midnight, so I'll be bushed tomorrow. Luckily I can attend because I have a ride home.

My First Week

Gambia is an incredible trip! The people are so friendly and helpful, I see why it's advertised as "The Smiling Coast."
The acomodations in Makumbaya are not exactly as shown in Meagan's blog. I have a private drop loo, but if I want to go at night, I have to unlock my door and walk around a building and a bunch of other things, remove a stick that holds the tin and wood door closed and be sure to have water with me. Not bad, just unanticipated. \
In living in the compound, I see a huge strength of the country. The extended family is wonderful to observe. There are five young mothers, three fathers and ten children. The oldest three go to nursery school. Watching the family interact is such a treat. Although I am fed in a separate bowl and given a spoon, the rest of the women and children gather around one huge bowl on the ground. Most use their right hand to eat. It's a site to observe. The chickens are nearby to clean up any of the rice that falls. Yes, there's rice and rice and rice. I must admit though, I've enjoyed every Gambian dish that I've had. I didn't enjoy eating the bones of the fish, although it was alright to drop then on the ground for the animals.
The gellah-gellah are amazing. I have traveled on them anytime I've gone to or from Makumbaya. They are vans that are licensed for 22 people. So far I only seen 18 plus a few babies. Each one has an apprentice who controls the door and collects money. Often the doors keep coming open. It's totally amazing that people don't get hurt. At the same time riding in them is a joy. They wait to leave until there are "enough" passengers. Then they also pick up along the way. Sometimes it's things they're also picking up, like the time it stopped at a quarry. We waited while they filled three huge bags with zigon. I don't know the spelling or the use except that it's edible, but pregnant women shouldn't eat it. I tried it and it seem tasteless, so there must be a reason to consume it.
The school where I'll be working has huge classes, but they are really energetic and well behaved. The Jolly Phonics are sung with gusto. Unfortunately, usually I can't understand the words. For those of you who know me, you know how difficult accents are for me to understand. On top of that, these are children learning a third, fourth or fifth language! I'm actually impressed with what I've seen teaching wise, but I haven't seen much. I'll be observing and making suggestions beginning next week. This week, I'll be teaching a spelling exercise that will allow everyone to continually be taking part and give every student many times to hear the correct spelling.
Music-wise, I've had two incredible experiences. Both are meeting the top kora players in their compounds. At Jaliba Kuyateh's compound, I met him and listened to a practice. (More details later) Today, I visited with Malamini and PaBobo Jobarteh. I will be taking lessons from PaBobo and learning local stories from his dad, Malamini. I continue to find it amazing that you can actually interact with the top performers.
Next time I get to the internet, I hope to have my entry on a thumb drive as well as photos.

Jaliba Kuyateh - more details

While visiting in Brikama with Ebrima Sarr, my host, he took me to Jaliba's compound. We were met there by the drummer, Baba. Baba said that Jaliba's group would be practicing at four and that we should come back at 3:30. He also said that any musicians who were late to practice had to pay a fine.
We returned at 3:30 and had the pleasure of watching jeli children playing the instruments while the crew set up. I'll soon add photos if I can figure out how to do it. It was amazing how there were babies under a year who kept wanting to drum. Their mom's would take them to the three sabar and they would beat them with a stick. (Those drums are often played with one hand and one stick.)At least two of Jaliba's sons played the kora and sang. I had the pleasure of playing the balafon for a bit. Not West African tunes, just a couple originals.
Time passed and finally at five fifteen, Jaliba showed up! Guess the fine doesn't apply to him. He did go eat before he joined practice! The rehearsal reminded me of a few I've heard at home - Jeliba telling people how he'd like them to change what they were playing. Everyone was pleasant, no cross words, just men working together on four songs.
After hearing them, I see why people here consider Jaliba the top performer. He playes while he sings and dances and he is active in social causes.

Griot - Jeli

I'd mentioned that there would be more about the term Griot. Rather than putting it in my own words before I visit the country, I'd rather quote from Eric Cherry, in his book, Mande Music. "The Maninka term Jeli (in Mandinka they are called Jalis) refers to a type of musical and verbal artist. Jelis are somewhat like the bards of old Europe. They are story teller, historians and musicians and yet more than this. Not just anybody can be Jeli. They are highly trained individuals and the skills are handed down through generations of specific families. Jelis have the exlusive right to play the kora, the bala (balafon) and the Koni. In certain areas Jelis also play the Jeli dundun and the tama. It is their role to sing and recount Mande social & politcal life.
They are praise singers and often encourage people to act. It is said that they can mould actions out or music in much the same way a blacksmith can mould useful things out of metal.
There are 3 fields of speciality for Jelis
* Speech (kuma) - This usually consists of history, stories, geneologies and proverbs.
* Song (Donkili) - Melodies and lyrics.
* Instrument playing (Maninka: foli, Mandinka: kosiri).
Each skill has completely different training and the end result is high specialisation whichever is chosen. Most males are skilled in 2 of these areas. Females are generally singers. Certain family names are Jeli, such as Cissokho, Koyate, Conte and Diabate." Others in The Gambia are Jobarteh, Susso, Suso, Saho, Kanuteh, Konte, & Konteh.

Jolly Phonics

In my teaching of English to third through sixth grade, I've been asked to use a British program called Jolly Phonics. It contains a song that all of you probably learned in school. I'm trying to learn it this new way! Check it out.

The Kora

Here, not only does one of the master kora players,Toumani Diabate, describe how to play the instrument, but you also get to hear it played with the balafon (marimba), djembe, ngoni, sabar, ntama, guitar, and other instruments. Near the beginning, you see the balafon from underneath. Watch for the small gourd under each wooden key. The sound resonates through those gourds. Each gourd has one or more holes drilled in it and then covered. The covering used to be made from spider egg cases. Nowadays cigarette papers are used.
Ry Cooder has played piano and guitar with this group.
If you'd like to personally hear this man, Toumani Diabate is playing on April 10, 2009 with the Bela fleck group at the University of Pennsylvania.

M'balax music

M'balax ( balax, Mballax, Mbalakh, Ndaga, Ndagga) music began in the 1970's in The Gambia and Senegal as a fusion of popular Western music and dance such as jazz, soul, Latin (especially Cuban) and rock blended with sabar, the traditional polyrhythmic drumming and dance music of the area. Dancers used moves associated with the sabar rhythms. Some of the first to popularize this music were Youssou N'Dour, Baaba Maal Thione Seck and Omar Pene.
In this video you can see the sabar drums (hit with one hand and one stick) join today's instruments.

Music Weekends continued.

The next video is Pa Bobo's brother, Tata Dindin Jobarteh singing his composition, "One Love" with his Salam band. In it you can see a riti player. The riti is a one stringed instrument. You'll also see a stilt dancer and what I believe is a masquerade called a Kankurang. He is an individual who wears a mask made of the bark and red fibre of the faara tree.

Music Weekends

Because people attend mosque on Friday afternoons, school is only held for four and a half days in The Gambia.  That means I'll be able to travel somewhere by gelleh gelleh (bush taxi)beginning Friday afternoons. At present I plan to spend many weekends in Brikama which is the music center of the country. I've studied West African drumming for the past seven years, but most of my teachers are from Guinea. That means I'll be exposed to a lot of new music. 

In preparation for my trip, I've been listening to music from The Gambia. I find myself loving the sound of the Kora, The Gambia's national instrument. I am so intrigued by it, that I've decided to take a few lessons in order to understand the basic technique. The kora is a Mandinkan harp-lute type instrument made from a large calabash, a rosewood pole and 21 strings which today are made from fishing line. 

I'll be taking lessons from Pa Bobo Jobarteh who comes from a long line of Griot. (Griot or jeli will be the subject of a later entry.) 

I'm attaching two YouTube entries. The one is of Pa Bobo playing in a compound. This may be where I take a lesson. Wherever it is, I probably can meet his brother Tata Dindin who is also a well-known kora player and also his father Malamini who was the manager of the Gambia National Troup and of course plays kora. 

Right now, a song that PaBobo composed, Peace, Love and Unity has become an unofficial national anthem of The Gambia. (Second video. Sung by another griot, Lamin Saho.) If you'd like to see more about Pa Bobo and his family, check out his site at www.kairakundaarts.org.